Today we’d like to introduce you to Kathleen Goertzen.
So, before we jump into specific questions about the business, why don’t you give us some details about you and your story.
My interest in the garment industry started at an early age, building clothes out of fabric scraps for all my Barbie Doll clothes from age 6 onward. I loved attractive clothing but could not afford it growing up so I taught myself how to sew following the pattern guides (No YouTube back then!). In high school and college, my main focus was on Clothing and Textiles.
After a whirlwind of general education, I finally found L.A. Trade Tech where the teachers (many of whom had gone to the more prestigious and expensive schools) said if they had to do it all over again they would have gone to L.A.Trade Tech. Here I really learned how the industry works and what I needed to know to work in it, surviving the whims of the fashion world by augmenting my education with technical skills in patterns, grading, and marking as well. I finished number one in my class winning the Golden Thimble award where the final projects were voted on by designers in the industry.
I started working for a large robe manufacturer the day after I graduated and worked several jobs downtown L.A. I then started my own business at home in Santa Monica making patterns and the 1st samples for numerous customers. It was through one of these customers that my next big adventure in life would begin. She spoke to a friend about me who worked for a large importing company here in San Diego, they were desperately in need of someone to oversee their garment production in India ASAP. From my technical education, previous international experience and go-getter attitude I was hired on the spot and flew to Bombay in 2 weeks after wrapping up my life in California.
After helping to establish standards, quality, and fits in their sampling units in Bombay I was asked to make a trip to Sri Lanka and work with their newer agents there as well.
Eventually, I oversaw production for this company in India, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Nepal, Turkey, and Mauritius. After training local technicians in each country I set up an office in Hong Kong and we made all the patterns and prototypes that were sent to each of the different countries, establishing a company-wide standard of quality and fit across multiple overseas markets. I lived in Hong Kong for one year of the four years I worked overseas. The 1st three years I lived out of several suitcases and only came home to California for two weeks a year.
Upon returning home (now to San Diego) I set up a production unit for the company (Beebas Creations) where we worked with up to 13 lines in the company. We were the first company in San Diego to utilize the CAD system, in which we could make all of the sizes of a pattern (= grading) and create the layout for production cutting (markers). At one point I had up to 22 employees working under me – pattern makers, sample sewers, sample cutters, CAD operators, and assistants.
After 8 years heading up this operation, the company’s owner decided to sell off his stake in the clothing lines and embark on a new business opportunity abroad. I bought all of the equipment we had used in my production unit from them and started my own business, working with companies that was in need of pattern making, grading, and markers. At first, I had employees as a larger unit, but the cost of licenses, workmen’s compensation, taxes, etc. were just too much to take on as a burgeoning small business and make a profit.
So for the last 22 years, I have worked by myself taking on only the amount of work I can handle effectively, and primarily focusing on the CAD system operations. It takes a lot of concentration and focus as one mistake could cost a lot of money! I truly enjoy my work and my customers – many of whom have been with me since the beginning of my solo venture!
We’re always bombarded by how great it is to pursue your passion, etc – but we’ve spoken with enough people to know that it’s not always easy. Overall, would you say things have been easy for you?
Although each turn in my journey eventually brought me to the great place I’m in today, it hasn’t always been a smooth road. After many years with a large company, starting out on my own again was a learning experience, especially in my 40s with a young daughter to raise as well. Figuring out how to build a clientele base in this new field of CAD operations, teaching myself this new skill set, and building relationships within this industry have all been exciting challenges I’ve faced over the years and succeeded in. I look forward to meeting any new challenges that come my way!
We’d love to hear more about your business.
At Coastal Grading and Markers Inc. I now primarily work on a Computer-Aided Design (CAD) system, making the sizes of a pattern and the markers – which are the layout for production cutting, and what the cutting houses use to cut mass quantities from. There are not many garment companies left in San Diego but I always manage to keep quite busy. Word-of-mouth and your reputation mean a lot in this business, and over the last several decades through hard work, quality products, and establishing strong customer bonds I have cultivated a status as the source to go to in San Diego for your garment industry grading and marking needs.
What quality or characteristic do you feel is most important to your success?
The most important qualities I’ve found to be essential for success in this kind of work are attention to detail and precision. One has to have a good head for math (fractions, percentages, proportions) and an understanding of how the body grows in the different fit categories for men, women, and children. My work directly translates into dozens-to-hundreds of garments being cut for production at one time, so my measurements from customer’s inputs and sizes created must be on point, or risk crucial time and money delays.
Also, it is critical to have good communication skills as many of my customers are “newbies” to the industry and need to learn the “garmento” language. Being in San Diego, with many of the factories close to/across the border, I also enjoy speaking Spanish with some of my customers that can communicate more effectively in that language, and are willing give me the opportunity for some great bilingual practice as well!
Contact Info:
- Email: coastalmarking@sbcglobal.net
L.A Trade Tech Design School graduation photo- a younger me
Taking a canoe to the factories in Dhaka, Bangladesh after the monsoons
Working with the floor managers in a huge factory in Colombo, Sri Lanka
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